Restaurant Review:

JIM CAREW EATS OUT

"Why don't we try Posh Nosh?", my dining companion said in excited tones over the phone. "It's a great new Bistro and I hear they do a terrific lunch!" I had never heard of it, but I'm always willing to broaden my culinary horizons, so I agreed to give it a go. Arriving early, I had time to look around outside. The steel shutters and barbed wire were a nice touch – good example of 1950's kitsch. The Front-of-House staff were busy reading their horoscopes and I had to find my own way to a dimly-lit table in the corner. This turned out to be an upturned orange crate covered with an old newspaper. I knew it was old because the headline said "'Hands off Poland!', Hitler is warned". Someone threw me a menu and while I was studying this, my companion arrived, slightly out-of-breath. "The traffic outside! I've never seen so many police cars in my life!" "Never mind all that! Let's eat!"

For starters, she chose the Consomme de Wellington Boot – an exquisite creation, with just the right taste of burnt rubber and old socks. I had the Creme de Blue Suede Shoes, which was truly mouth-watering, with finely-chopped shoelaces floating on top. As we dined, we admired the decor – old lino, bare light bulb and a potted cabbage plant. Someone in the kitchen was singing "I want money, that's what I want!" in a Chinese accent

For the main course, my companion chose the Comfit of Kit-e-Kat, char-grilled and with a dressing of mixed dandelion weeds. I had the pan-fried Sausage Dog a la Chum Pedigree. Both dishes were fine, but I think the dog was a little rare – when I took a bite out of it, it yelped. However our waitress quickly sorted out the problem with a quick blast of the flame gun. We liked the fine, nutty texture of the meat and the zesty taste of the re-heated chips, liberally drenched in Sicilian Vinegar and then heated on top of the Super Ser. The carrots a la Bugs Bunny were good, but the real surprise of the meal was the Chef's Special – a selection of garden weeds, marinated in methylated spirits and flame-dried over burning mountain bike tyres. Truly special!

The drinks list was the one thing which didn't quite measure up, with just a choice between Scrumpy Jack and the House Cider. We chose the latter, which wasn't bad, although a stronger vintage would have complimented the various tastes on the palate somewhat better. For desserts, my companion had half a Mars Bar, sprinkled with chopped drinking-straw and I had a wickedly-indulgent packet of 15 Jaffa Cakes. These were followed by tea served in jam jars – a nice touch we both liked. All in all, a satisfying experience. The bill came to £350 (excluding cider) which was remarkable value for food of this quality.

Posh Nosh Bistro, Rear Laneway, Clanbrassil Street, Dublin 8

Pawn tickets, children's allowance books, and stolen cheques from all main banks accepted. Advance booking advisable.

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